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Katherine Field (you can read of Katherine’s experiences at the hospital on the “News” page) On June 17th Louise Harrison and I travelled to Zambia for a month with a lady called Heather Godfrey, who used to be a physiotherapist at the hospital and returns every year. Louise and I are both students at Southampton University about to enter our final year, studying Psychology and Geography respectively. I know Heather from back home and asked if I could accompany her this year so I could do some volunteer work for the hospital and research for my dissertation on Primary Health Care in Zambia, and I invited Louise along with me. After an interesting 6 hour coach ride from Lusaka we finally arrived at Tikondane Community Centre where we would be residing, about 1km from the hospital. Heather usually stays in the hospital mess but due to the large amount of medical students this year that was not possible, and in hindsight, for Louise and me, Tikondane was the best place to be. We also did some teaching for Elke, the lady who set up Tikondane, which was incredibly rewarding. Grade 7 were preparing for their exams so we helped them with some basic maths and English. What worked really well was the fact that there were both of us there. The children’s ages ranged quite considerably and so to did their academic ability. So if one of us was teaching and some of the children were struggling to understand the concept the other one could sit down with them and provide one to one help. The children I believe really appreciated it, as their teachers never did this and although we were only there for a short time period I think they learned something through us. Like any teachers we had our favourites. There was one boy called John who was extremely intelligent but quite quiet. Louise and I really wanted to take him home just to give him the opportunity to go further in education. We take our opportunities for granted, there are so many, but in Zambia that is one profound difference and there is no simple solution. Elke is an inspiring woman devoting all her time and energy into making a difference and I am so pleased that we were able to help her. One evening Louise and I, along with some of the medical students, got to experience a traditional dancing evening arranged by Elke in a nearby village which was fantastic. We met the chief and ALL the children and even tasted the local beer! The ladies dance was in one of the huts which was very small and lit by candles but with the drums the atmosphere was amazing. Two 15 year olds girls performed most of the dancing. They had been living in the hut for one month and had not been allowed out during that time as they had to learn how to become women and respect men through dancing, We all had to take part and I have to say it was quite difficult. Louise and I apparently need dancing lessons in the hut when we want to get married! The men’s dance followed outside and was very different. They all put on masks and became animals/spirits and danced away to the drums kicking up the dust as they went. It was an honour to have been allowed to witness such a large part of their culture, it was definitely a highlight. On our third weekend we travelled with the medical students, 14 of us in total, by mini bus up to South Luangwa National Park. The journey was extremely uncomfortable especially with all the Shoprite bags but the chocolate fix was awesome. The journey took about 6 hours in total, 4 of which were on a very bumpy dirt track, but it was completely worth it though. Upon entering Flatdogs, our camp, we met a family of elephants at the side of the road! We camped right next to the river inhabited by crocodiles and hippos. The elephants and hippos literally walk through the camp so we had to be very careful and keep our eyes peeled at all times. On our first night a hippo was grazing about 20metres outside the bar! Flat dogs provided us with the luxury of hot showers which were appreciated by everyone. Most of us went on 3 game drives: 1 driving, 1 half drive and half walk and 1 night drive. We saw lots of animals including: zebras, water buffalos, monkeys, impalas, giraffes, hyenas and luckily a leopard. Unfortunately the lions eluded us, although I got a great photo of a fresh lion paw! For me one of the ultimate highlights of the trip was standing on the bank watching the entire herd of elephants cross the river as the sun was setting. Finally, as we left the camp, we passed a family of giraffes by the side of the road which I know made Louise’s day!! We spent most of our last week in Livingstone visiting Victoria Falls – what an awesome sight! Just walking round them was great, if a little wet, and I have never been so hassled in the market afterwards! There is scores of activities to do at the Falls. One of the ultimate highlights for us was having breakfast on Livingstone Island which is right at the top in the middle of the Falls. We literally walked to about a 1m from the edge, the noise was unbelievable and the rainbow was spectacular. That evening we had a great laugh on the booze cruise but our heads were not so happy the next morning as we took a helicopter ride over the Falls and gorge. The whole experience was absolutely fantastic and one that I will never ever forget. There are so many memories that are hard to put into words: having breakfast with the Chief, the Milky Way, the sunsets, over packed bus rides to Chipata. Mosi beer, everyone saying How are you?, climbing the mountain, cake and custard, bicycles, a wedding, watching the TB drama, ”Zambian time” and crazy 8 game, but thankfully we’ve got all the photos to look back on. St. Francis is a wonderful hospital providing hundreds of people with the first level of health care. I have so much respect for everyone who works there, especially Paul, the doctors, the medical students and volunteers, because without them the lives of the people living in Katete and the surrounding areas would be far worse. We are keeping in touch with those we have met and hope to help in what ways we can in the future. We have already sent Elke and Tikondane a boxful of watches in an attempt to improve Zambians time keeping! People say Africa gets under your skin and I completely agree; Louise and I are already planning a trip back!
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